126. Hot Dog

The taste of gathering

It’s probably the most quintessentially American food. Burgers have gone global, but the hot dog remains our deal, our summer staple. Proudly processed, hot dogs emerged during a time when we believed industry could improve everything, meat included. Only recently did we start thinking a hot dog might be rustic or artisanal. Before that, it was the original mystery meat.

Its origins are likewise murky. The sausages are German, yes, but nobody knows who first slipped one into a bun. We do know that Nathan Handwerker, a Jewish immigrant from Poland, popularized the hot dog in Coney Island in the 1910s. Nathan’s Famous spread quickly throughout the country, and when FDR hosted King George VI at a picnic in 1939, the president and first lady served hot dogs. They were such a hit, the king asked for seconds.

Unlike pizza or barbecue, hot dogs generate fierce regional orthodoxies. Nobody’s going to get in an uproar over deep dish or vinegar, but with hot dogs, fixings become a moral issue. Chicagoans insist on “dragging it through the garden,” loading the thing with fresh vegetables, but God help you if you put ketchup on a Chicago dog.

Regardless of what’s on top of it, it belongs wherever we gather. Nobody remembers the greatest hot dog they ever ate; what we remember is the feeling of being at the ballgame, the county fair, the backyard cookout. Alongside parade routes and under fireworks, the hot dog tastes like a country having a picnic, together.

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Special thanks to Julie Kinzelman for suggesting the hot dog.

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Links:

• 23 Hot Dogs That Will Show You What America Tastes Like – Dennis Lee, The Takeout, April 5, 2022

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This post is part of The American 250, a series featuring 250 words on 250 objects made by Americans, located in America, in honor of the country’s 250th anniversary. Through December 31, 2026.

I’m looking for ideas for this series — have something you’d like me to consider for inclusion? Please feel free to leave a comment!